NO KITTEN FOR YOU !

Read this over and think about this. if the Below upsets, offends, concerns, worries or in any way causes you to hesitate  - then by all means STOP. Do the cat a favor , do the breeder a favor do yourself a favor and run out immediately and get the one on the LEFT ! 
 

Shred the curtains

Scratch the furniture

Get claws stuck in the table cloth and jump off in panic

breaking your grandmothers good China

Eat the hamster

walk into the other room and meow till you go into the room and pet them

Puke up hairballs on the rug, carpet or bed

Spread “poo” all around when a lovely little kernel gets

stuck in their tushy fur and they go racing around the

house just sure they are being pursued by a demon

Toss litter into every nook and cranny you didnt even know existed , that is until you step on it.

only stops long enough to grab your ankle and run -yes this will involve a tiny drop of blood shed
purrs at your touch most likely will purr at your touch or your kids or your husbands or bite your hand or completely ignore you . What day of the week is it?



Shreds your new (insert object here ) couch chair jacket etc



Leaves fur on that business suit you left out the night before (or worse a fur ball !)



Decides today there is no way they will ever eat THAT food again. SO you go out and buy 12 different kinds of food hoping he wont starve
eats your childs hair ties – vet bill $2500 for surgery
gets a sniffle – you think he's dying – vet bill $300 nope not dying



gets lost for ½ a day you cant find him kids in tears you in panic – he comes nonchalantly out of the bathroom cabinet like “hey ..whats up ?”

you intend to permanently disfigure  this animal by de-clawing it

you intend to abandon this animal when it gets old , pees on things or no longer amuses you.

you intend to neglect this animal by leaving it alone for long periods of time with no companionship or to feed it inappropriately or not seek regular veterinary care or yell or throw things at or in any other way intentionally injure this animal because you happen to be tired, sick, short tempered , or just plain ignorant of the animals innate behavior. 

 

Vitamin K in Cats

5. Vitamins (5 of 6)
Vitamin K is not usually talked about when one speaks of vitamins, but it's there, and it's important. Vitamin K comes in two natural forms. K1 (phylooquinone) occurs in green plants. K2 (menaquinone) is produced by bacteria in the large intestine. K3 (menadione) is a synthetic version with 2-3 times the potency of K1.
It's main function involves clotting of blood. Specifically, vitamin K functions as a cofactor to convert proteins into prothrombin (factor II) in the liver. (See accompanying diagram.) Without enough vitamin K, clotting slows. (Vitamin K is an antidote for rat poisoning.) Vitamin K also plays a role in bone and kidney tissue involving the binding of calcium.

Cats get some of their vitamin K from the bacteria in the intestine. For most cats, this seems to supply a sufficient amount. The exception is the intestinal bacterial population is depleted by antibiotics or other drugs interfer with the absorption from the large intestine. Liver, eggs, and certain fish (salmon, canned tuna and mackerel) are fairly good animal sources.

Again - please note all thanks and due go to Linda Hornberger for writing this up so so well.

4 month Hawaii Baby PIctures ~

 Photos by Chanan , 1/2 of the Hawaii litter - 4 months of age - at their first show.

Vitamins in Cats - part 2 of a 6 part series

Again - shared from writings of Linda Hornberger -


5. Vitamins (2 of 6)
The first vitamin we will look at is Vitamin A. Vitamin A is actually several compounds, retinol, retinal, and retinoic acid, with retinol being the most biologically active form. In the body, vitamin A is involved in vision, bone growth, reproduction and epithelial tissue (the tissue that lines body cavity, organs, and comprises much of the glands).
Regarding vision, the retinal combines with a protein to form rhodopsin, which is the light-sensitive pigment found in the rods of the retina. [Rods are the part of the retina which is responsible for low-light, black and white vision.] The rhodopsin splits apart when exposed to light, releasing energy that is transmitted by the nerves. It then regenerates in the dark. With a deficiency of vitamin A, the rods become increasingly insensitive to light, eventually leading to night blindness.

Regarding epithelial tissue, vitamin A is necessary for the production and differentiation of the cells and for the production of mucoproteins, found in some of the mucous secreted by the body. This mucous, in the respiratory and gastrointestinal tract is an barrier against infection. With a deficiency of vitamin A, lesions occur which can then lead to increased infections.
Regarding bone and tooth development, vitamin A is important for the epithelial cartilage and for osteoclast activity, which are the cells responsible directly for bone growth.
Regarding reproduction, vitamin A has been shown to be important for the production of sperm and for normal estrous cycles.
In most animal, vitamin A is converted from carotenoids, the yellow orange pigments in plants. Cats, however, lack the enzyme (or are very deficient in it) which converts the carotenoids. Thus, cats MUST consume vitamin A. Fish oils, milk, liver, and egg yolk are all sources for pre-formed vitamin A which cats can use.
Interestingly, lutein, one of the carotenoids, and beta-carotene do actually have a role in cats. It seems these two compounds have a function in cell-mediated and humoral immune response. [Regarding this, see https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/10713345 " Compared to control, cats fed lutein also showed enhanced Con A- and pokeweed mitogen-stimulated PBMCs proliferation. Dietary lutein also increased the percentages of CD4+ and CD21+ lymphocytes on Week 12 but had no significant effect on pan T, CD8 and MHC class II markers. Plasma IgG was higher (p<0 .05="" 10mg="" 12.="" 8="" action="" and="" cats.="" cats="" domestic="" fed="" immuno-modulatory="" in="" lutein="" of="" on="" p="" results="" support="" the="" these="" weeks=""> Note: not my cat

Grooming continued...

Again - copied from an online article written by Linda Hornberger - all due credit to her.

Grooming a Cat -- Step 3.3
Now for the fun, and yes, I personally think it's fun!
I groom my cats in one of two locations -- depending on the cat's willingness to be groomed. Those that like, I groom on my kitchen counter. I use the end of the counter with the refrigerator, so the cat is blocked in on 3 sides -- wall, fridge, and me. It's a nice height so, my back is not strained. There's space on top of the microwave for tools. And there's plenty of light.
For those less than thrilled, which is only a few, I take them into the master bath, close the door, and groom them on the floor, between my legs. Being in there with only me, they seem to feel safer. I can easily lay out all the tools next to me.
Regardless of the cat, my general order of grooming is something like this:
back of neck
back of neck continuing in long strokes towards tail
back of neck
front shoulders
chin and chest
back of neck
hip region
back of neck
lifting one front paw at a time, the inside of the other paw and chest/belly
back of neck
long strokes down body
push cat gently over and lift one rear leg to groom belly and groin
let cat up, push over on other side and repeat
back of neck
finally tail and butt bloomers
With a shorthaired cat, I do it with comb then slicker brush, so two complete run throughs. With persians, I do one very thorough combing.
Now, you may have notice the back of neck got a lot of attention. Cats LOVE being brushed there -- it's their sweet spot. So, I return to it over and over to make the experience enjoyable, especially with anxious cats. Sometimes it's only 1 or 2 strokes, just to calm and reassure. The chin, chest, shoulders are all spots most cats like groomed. The hips can be iffy. Many cats do not like the area in front of the tail combed, especially with any pressure so sometimes I sneak in some strokes there. If the cat tolerates nail trimming, lifting the front feet to groom should be fine.
Some cats love their bellies groomed and some don't. The recommended way of grooming it is to flip the cat on its back in your lap and groom it that way. And if the cat is skittish at all, you will be mauled as an upside down cat feels VERY vulnerable. Laying on their side, they tend to be more tolerant. With one girl, I have her sit up, I pick up both front feet on my one arm, raise the arm until she's a prairie dog, and then comb her tummy like that.
I can hear some of you say "Yah, not with my cat." Grooming is a matter of positive experiences. Start with what you can do -- and if that is 2 or 3 strokes on the back of the neck, so be it. Then try for 3 or 4 or even 5... Work up to the shoulder region. Slowly expand the tolerable area an inch here and there.
The worst thing you can do is force the issue!
And before someone says, "But you have show cats," I also have Gabby, PsychoPuff (in photo). When I got her, she would attack me if she saw a comb -- and I mean it, I have the scars. (BTW, getting blood on your silver persian is a no-no!) But I persisted (and it did help when she started to like being petted...), and did just what she could handle on that day. I approached her calmly, without any anticipation that she would attack, and with lots of patience. It took 9 months to fully groom her back, shoulders, head, and chest. We are working on her front legs now... slowly.
With long-haired cats, the #1 reason in my mind for hating grooming is mats, which we will talk about in the next installment.

Combs for Longhaired Cats as written by Linda Hornberger

Written by Linda Hornberger - copied in full


Grooming a Cat -- Part 3.2 -- Tools for Longhairs
As long as we are not talking about grooming a show persian (or other longhaired show cat), the tools are very simple.
Item 1 -- A greyhound comb.
These are metal combs, usually with two different ends -- one wider spaced than the other. The teeth should be about 1 3/8" or a bit longer with the comb about 7.5" long. Master Grooming Tools makes one for about $8-15. Andis (the clipper company) has them. Chris Christensen's Buttercombs (shampoo manufacturer) are good ones I've been told and cost around $30. The best WERE the Original Greyhound combs handmade in Belgium. Sadly that company went out of business, but an English company, Ashley Craig, bought the molds and is now manufacturing greyhound combs for about $35. Whether these are actually better is a matter of opinion -- some claim the new ones are smoother through the coat, others claim the old ones are more durable. The point is, there is a greyhound comb to fit everyone's budget.
The reason you want a comb is simple -- you have to get through all that hair and down to the skin. A brush (slicker, bristle, pin) won't work and in fact, a brush often will make matters worse by dealing with only the last 1/2" of hair while the hair near the skin mats. This leaves the owner surprised when they finally discover the cat is one giant mat even though the outer layer is soft!
And that is about it... For years, I had 1 cheap greyhound comb and it was perfectly fine to keep my longhairs and persians in okay condition. Now if you want to, you can add a face comb for the legs and face and a pin bursh to floof the coat, but neither item is essential. Just the greyhound comb...
Now for my show cats, I have an oversized greyhound comb, 2 regular greyhound combs, a face comb, a flea comb, a fat-brat comb, a pin brush, eyebrow comb, and 2 sizes of slicker brushes -- each with a particular task or area of a cat to deal with. (I do believe some of the appeal of showing persians is buying all the tools to groom them!) If there is interest and we have time, I will gladly explain grooming a show persian.
Next up, how we will be using these tools.

Merry Christmas From Kender Siberians

 From our kitty family to yours. Merry Christmas

Dangerous Holiday Plants and your Siberian

Here's a quick look at a few of hte most popular plants this time of year that are potentially life threatening to your kitty !  This is by no means a comprehensive list. Just a small reminder !

Vitamins And Their Role in Cats

PLEASE NOTE - I did NOT write this - I am copying and pasting from Linda Hornberger's FB Group. But it is very concise and easy to follow.


 Vitamins (1 of 6)
Next to energy, vitamins are one of the most important aspects of food. Vitamins are organic molecules that the body needs in tiny amounts to help with many of the enzymatic processes. They are not fat, carbohydrate, nor protein and are not used for energy or as structural components. Most cannot be synthesized by the body.
Vitamins can be divided into two groups: fat-soluble, water-soluble.

Fat-soluble vitamins are A, D, E, and K. They are digested and absorbed in ways similar to fats and are excreted in feces through the bile. Excesses are stored in the liver. Because they are stored, the fat-soluble vitamins, and especially A and D, are more likely to build to toxic levels than water-soluble vitamins. Also because they are stored, deficiencies develop slowly.
Water-soluble vitamins are C and the B-complex vitamins. These are absorbed passively in the small intestine and excreted in the urine. With the exception of cobalmin (B12), the other water-soluble vitamins are not stored in the body. Hence, while they have a low risk of developing toxic levels, they have a better chance of developing deficiencies than do fat-soluble vitamins.
The photo shows a summary of signs of deficiency, signs of excess, and the food sources for each of the vitamins. We will discuss each in turn.

 Vitamins (2 of 6)
The first vitamin we will look at is Vitamin A. Vitamin A is actually several compounds, retinol, retinal, and retinoic acid, with retinol being the most biologically active form. In the body, vitamin A is involved in vision, bone growth, reproduction and epithelial tissue (the tissue that lines body cavity, organs, and comprises much of the glands).
Regarding vision, the retinal combines with a protein to form rhodopsin, which is the light-sensitive pigment found in the rods of the retina. [Rods are the part of the retina which is responsible for low-light, black and white vision.] The rhodopsin splits apart when exposed to light, releasing energy that is transmitted by the nerves. It then regenerates in the dark. With a deficiency of vitamin A, the rods become increasingly insensitive to light, eventually leading to night blindness.
Regarding epithelial tissue, vitamin A is necessary for the production and differentiation of the cells and for the production of mucoproteins, found in some of the mucous secreted by the body. This mucous, in the respiratory and gastrointestinal tract is an barrier against infection. With a deficiency of vitamin A, lesions occur which can then lead to increased infections.
Regarding bone and tooth development, vitamin A is important for the epithelial cartilage and for osteoclast activity, which are the cells responsible directly for bone growth.
Regarding reproduction, vitamin A has been shown to be important for the production of sperm and for normal estrous cycles.
In most animal, vitamin A is converted from carotenoids, the yellow orange pigments in plants. Cats, however, lack the enzyme (or are very deficient in it) which converts the carotenoids. Thus, cats MUST consume vitamin A. Fish oils, milk, liver, and egg yolk are all sources for pre-formed vitamin A which cats can use.
Interestingly, lutein, one of the carotenoids, and beta-carotene do actually have a role in cats. It seems these two compounds have a function in cell-mediated and humoral immune response. [Regarding this, see https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/10713345

" Compared to control, cats fed lutein also showed enhanced Con A- and pokeweed mitogen-stimulated PBMCs proliferation. Dietary lutein also increased the percentages of CD4+ and CD21+ lymphocytes on Week 12 but had no significant effect on pan T, CD8 and MHC class II markers. Plasma IgG was higher (p<0 .05="" 10mg="" 12.="" 8="" action="" and="" cats.="" cats="" domestic="" fed="" immuno-modulatory="" in="" lutein="" of="" on="" p="" results="" support="" the="" these="" weeks=""> Note: not my cat

Hawaii LItter Gets a Pro Photo Shoot

So we decided to show 1/2 of the Hawaii litter at the CA , CFA show. Boy did they ham it up and show very very well.  Marilyn even made a 9th Best Kitten Final.

Maui Update From Texas

I just got a wonderful Thanksgiving gift... notes and pictures like this truly make it all that and more for me.

This is Maui and her wonderful new family in Texas.


Hi Alice! Thanks for the email! She is doing great. Sleeping is def not a problem lol which is great- she adjusted quickly and found her little sleeping spots all over!
We let her out around Charlie finally and they really bonded so now they sleep together! We love having her and spoil her rotten ❤️ we will keep you updated!

14 Years Strong

our beautiful Kisa is living the good life and always has since she was a kitten with Debbie in San Diego.  14 years !  We are so happy and thrilled for her family and ours.

RAndom Kender Kitty PIctures

These are some random Kender Siberian Kitty pictures shared with us through facebook and email. And we cant thank our Kender Families enough for being the loving safe wonderful homes they are.

Kender in Utah

Kender in AZ

Kender in Hong Kong, China

Kender in CA

Kender in Arkansas

I know we left out alot ! We are very blessed.

Tasha Turns 2

forgot to share this last month - what a great collage. Miss Tasha is littermate to our Amy , and lives with her nephew Alfie as well.   Thanks Dan & Stephanie for being such phenomenal Kender parents!

Pretty Girl

 This is Kender's Iron Butterfly   a lovely blue silver classic tabby girl - bred by us , co owned with Dennette P. and Iris Z.

 All photo credits to the photographer.  Lovely job they did.

Bella , Siberian at age 9

Miss Bella - CFA Grand , HCM clear at age 8 ! PKD Neg , PKD1 Neg, PK Def Neg
Enjoying being the queen of her new home. Amanda - one of the receptionists/techs at my Vet's fell in love and its easy to see why ! I think it was mutual.

Hawaii Litter Settles In

Hawaii Litter Settles in -
and we just got this from Lili in Flagstaff! from the most recent HAwaii litter

Hi Alice,
I assume you miss Lili. So here is she enjoying here tree. She is doing great. Such a wonderful little thing.
I also would like to know when should i take her to the vet for the next vaccinations.

Thank you

Hawaii girl Lilly update

Got this on one of the little girls from the Hawaii litter

- Lilly is doing well:) She left her carrier immediately and wanted out of the bedroom about a half hour later so that seems a good sign:) I left her out of her room for the first time at night last night and she did great.

She looks content to me !  Thank you Jenn for sharing this !

Why We Keep Kittens Post Surgery

Please note I am sharing this from another breeder with her permission.

 She recently lost a little girl - kitten right after a spay - from the pain meds injection they MADATE. They tell us we can't NOT give it - yet - a certain number of cats will DIE from this.

So when we are breeders tell you - no you cant have your kitten until at minimum of 10 days post surgery THIS is just 1 of the many reasons why - we are protecting YOU , we are carefully watching them - and we are praying we aren't one of the statistics. 



From Sue C -
 
Thank you to everyone for your outpouring of support about the loss of little Pennie. She was a beautiful, sweet, and perfect little girl. Her future family, Patty and Vince, were all excited to welcome their little girl only to have her taken before she ever arrived. Even in their own loss, they've been supportive and that means a lot.
Pennie was spayed and was doing great but she suffered acute renal failure and in the span of just over 48 hrs she went from happy and healthy to crossing the Rainbow Bridge.
Whether you're a breeder or a pet owner, be very cautious about the medications your cats receive. Unfortunately, we have limited options for cats when it comes to pain meds and all have risks. Pennie received Metacam following her spay and it does have a risk of renal failure as do all NSAIDs when it comes to cats. So, evaluate the need for the pain meds first and then what other non NSAID options you may have if it's a one time dosage.
As a breeder, I have always done pediatric spay and neuter and this is yet another reason why. We bear the burden of complications both financially as well as emotionally so our pet owners don't go through this as directly.
So, kiss your babies and hug them a little closer today and know you've all meant a lot to me in offering your strength and words of encouragement.



For more information - visit this site - http://www.metacamkills.com

Kender Kitty Families !

At today's show we had such an amazing show of support and love - thank you to 3 of our Kender Kitty Families for joining us !
Pictured are Stephanie and Dan (who own Tasha and Alfie) Debra B.( who owns Silver, Kelt and Zima ) and Patricia Walker and family (who own Gus and Dragos) I know Dee Marie Robins wanted to join us as well but work just wouldnt let go !

Thank you ALL for being a part of our family !

Kender Families

Apparently Boris doesnt fold laundry so well... or maybe he does .. what do I know !

Ivan enjoying life!

Patricia takes the prettiest pictures - this is Gus.

Article is copied here - and can be found originally here - http://healthypets.mercola.com/sites/healthypets/archive/2015/08/01/pet-immunization.aspx?utm_source=facebook.com&utm_medium=referral&utm_content=facebookpets_ranart&utm_campaign=20161007_pet-immunization

All credits to appropriate authors.

Pet Immunization: Far Riskier Than You Might Think, Yet Highly Promoted by Vets

By Dr. Becker
The traditional veterinary community has decided to co-opt the CDC's "National Immunization Awareness Month" for humans, which occurs each year in August. The North American Veterinary Community (NAVC) and the American Animal Hospital Association (AAHA) encourage their membership to "Use August 'National Immunization Awareness Month' to Promote Pet Vaccination Awareness".¹
The goal is clearly to promote vaccinations, though the word used to describe the month-long awareness campaign is immunization, not vaccination. This is a hugely important distinction. If a dog is already immunized against, say, distemper, there is no benefit to his health in vaccinating him again against distemper, but there is a risk of adverse side effects each time a vaccine is given.

Is the Goal to Immunize Pets… or Vaccinate Them Over and Over?

If the traditional veterinary community was truly interested in ensuring pets are immunized against disease, they would be promoting antibody titer tests to measure each animal's immunity to the core canine diseases (distemper, parvo, adenovirus, and rabies) and core feline diseases (panleukopenia, calicivirus, herpes, and rabies).
Unfortunately, the majority of conventional veterinarians prefer to simply re-vaccinate every pet every year, or every 3 years if they're following the latest guidelines for vaccinations – without establishing whether the animal is already immune to the disease being vaccinated against.
Traditional veterinary practices also often recommend non-core vaccines that may not be very effective, long-lasting, or even necessary depending on where the pet lives and his or her lifestyle. For example, an indoor-only cat's immunization needs based on potential exposure to disease are very different from those of a cat that roams free outdoors. And in my opinion, no dog needs a bordetella vaccine, yet they are routinely given.

Something to Keep in Mind: Vaccinations Are a Major Profit Center for Veterinary Practices

The markup on rabies vaccines, as one example, is obscene – 2,400 to 6,200 percent in many cases. Estimates are that removing the one-year rabies vaccination/office visit for dogs alone could reduce a veterinarian's income 25 to 30 percent. And this example involves just one type of vaccine, and just one type of pet.
One conservative estimate is that over half of dog visits and nearly three quarters of cat vet visits are for vaccinations.
When you consider the markup on vaccines, the number of vet visits scheduled only for immunizations, and the typically short duration of those visits, the "vaccination business" can prove very lucrative for veterinary practices that promote it.
Veterinarians aren't the only ones making a living off vaccination shots. The drug companies who manufacture vaccines have enjoyed year-over-year sales increases for well over a decade.
The US is the largest consumer of vaccines by a huge margin over any other country.

Vaccination ≠ Immunization

Vaccination and immunization are not one and the same.
Immunization is the outcome of effective vaccination against disease and/or exposure to a disease that the animal recovers from. The act of administering a vaccine doesn't automatically mean the animal has been immunized against the disease, however, that is the assumption. Since I don't like to assume an animal is protected against disease, I make it a practice to run titer tests within a few weeks of the last round of puppy or kitten shots to ensure immunity has been achieved.
When an animal is successfully vaccinated against certain diseases (distemper, parvo, and adenovirus in dogs, and panleukopenia in cats) and becomes immunized, she receives what we call sterile immunity. Sterile immunity lasts a minimum of 7 to 9 years, up to a maximum of lifetime immunity as measured by titer tests. This means the pet cannot become infected, nor will she shed the virus should she be exposed. Since the diseases of distemper, parvo, hepatitis (adenovirus), and panleukopenia are everywhere, the risk of exposure is constant.
Other types of vaccines, typically non-core vaccines (called bacterins) against bacterial derived diseases such as Lyme disease, leptospirosis, bordetella (kennel cough), canine influenza (a virus, but one that mutates constantly so vaccine is not consistently protective), and others, do not produce sterile immunity. These vaccines last a year at the most, and antibody levels against these diseases (as measured by titer tests) decrease with each passing year, meaning lifelong protection is questionable.
I prefer to run IFA (immunofluorescence antibody) titer tests for parvo and distemper because they give a clear-cut answer, either "yes the animal is protected" or "no the animal is not protected". Serology and other testing methods can be confusing for owners. For example, a low serology score doesn't mean the pet isn't protected against disease. It's possible an animal may still be protected for up to a year or longer thanks to immune memory cells.
For purposes of comparison, veterinary core vaccines are similar to human polio and MMR (measles, mumps, rubella) vaccines that provide lifetime immunity. Non-core veterinary vaccines can be compared to the human tetanus vaccine, which is also a bacterin and may not last for a lifetime.

How to Play It Safe and Smart with Pet Vaccinations

Discuss what kinds of vaccines your pet needs, and how often, with your veterinarian. I strongly encourage you to try to find a holistic vet to care for your pet, especially when it comes to vaccinations.
If you can't locate a holistic vet in your area, make sure not to take your pet to any veterinary practice that promotes annual or more frequent re-vaccinations. Also try to avoid any boarding facility, groomer, training facility, or other animal service that requires you to vaccinate your pet more than necessary. Look for pet care providers who accept antibody titer tests in lieu of proof of vaccination.
Insure each vaccine your dog or cat receives meets the following criteria:

• Your pet is healthy! Animals must be healthy to receive vaccines, so if your pet has allergies, endocrine issues, organ dysfunction, cancer (or is a cancer survivor), or another medical issue he or she is NOT a candidate to receive vaccines
• It is for a life threatening disease (this eliminates most on the list immediately)
• Your pet has the opportunity to be exposed to the disease (for example, indoor cats have little to no exposure)
• The vaccine is considered both effective and safe (most aren't)
• Do not vaccinate a pet that has had a previous vaccine reaction of any kind
• If you do vaccinate your pet, ask your holistic vet to provide a homeopathic vaccine detox such as Thuja (a common choice for all vaccines except rabies)

Rabies vaccines are required by law, but insist on the 3-year vs. the 1-year vaccine and request the homeopathic rabies vaccine detoxifier Lyssin from your holistic vet. If your pet is young, ask to have the rabies vaccine given after 4 months of age, preferably closer to 6 months, to reduce the risk of an adverse reaction. Sick pets should never be vaccinated against rabies.

A Final Word About Antibody Titer Tests

Antibody levels can be measured from a blood draw, but be aware that antibody titer tests can be outrageously expensive depending on where you have them done. I recommend shopping around, because there is just no reason the cost of a simple antibody blood test for distemper or parvo should be prohibitive.
I've heard dog owners complain that their vet charges $200-$450 for a distemper/parvo vaccine titer test, which is ridiculous, and surely persuades some pet owners to re-vaccinate instead because it's more affordable.
If you're interested in titer tests for your pet and your vet's cost seems high, call around to other practices in your area. A reasonable cost for an office visit, blood draw and distemper/parvo titer test should be around $70-$120, depending on where the blood is sent and how (samples sent overnight obviously cost more). As a point of reference, Hemolife Diagnostics, owned by Dr. Jean Dodds, charges around $50 for the distemper/parvo titer test, which is run from a blood sample any vet can send in.
So let's all celebrate National Immunization Awareness Month by remembering that the words "vaccination" and "immunization" are not interchangeable, and that insuring your pet is immunized against disease does not mean subjecting to him to automatic re-vaccinations at regular intervals.

Derby Litter - Georgi Update

We just received this today - and couldnt be happier for him and his loving family !

Hi Alice,

Hope you are doing well!  Just wanted to share some recent pics of one of your Derby Day kittens, Georgi!  He is our charming, funny, lovable big 12.5 pound boy and is doing so well!  He is an amazing companion to all of us and we are so grateful to have him.  Thanks for giving us such an incredible kitty!

You can see in the pics how he loves to help with dishwashing duties and is amazingly athletic when the feathers come out!!!

Best wishes,

Didnt he just turn out so stunning ? I sure think so

Yet another amazing flying Siberian ! LOL